March 23 – Saying goodbye and going to Texas

It’s been so much fun spending time with our new friends. We are on similar adventures and therefore can empathise with each other in ways others may not understand. This morning was a chance for the kids to once again run around together, for us to reflect on the adventures we’ve shared and the ones we each hope to have in the future, and of course for some group photos, which in all our times together, we had yet not done.

We packed up our spot, hugs and high fives all around, and rolled back down the steep rocky road. They were heading to Albuquerque where their furnace had an appointment to be fixed for hopefully the last time and we were heading into Carlsbad for a chore day.

We dropped Jen off with all our Laundry at the Laundromat and I took the kids and Molly to a school we saw on our way in that had an open gate and an appealing playground.

They played, we had lunch, and I took a few minutes to design a plug with a loop out of the flexible filament on the 3d printer. We put carabeners in these loops and use the clips to hang various items such as wet towels/rags, swimsuits, etc. above the step inside our sliding door. These plugs pop into holes in the body that are there from the manufacturer.

We got a text from Jen that she was finished with the laundry and ready to be picked up. So we put away the soccer ball, scooters, and 3d printer and went back to pick up our queen. Our destination for the night was a new state, Texas and we were happy to hear the Google Maps voice welcome us to The Lone Star State. We pulled into the campground inside Guadalupe Mountain National Park but were bummed to learn that the first come first serve park had already reached it’s capacity for the night. A friendly volunteer ranger informed us of a less well known site a few miles back (still in the park) that we could camp at for the night. Same price, but we had the water, bathroom, and animal pens (this is at Frijole Corral, so if we also had a horse with us in the van, there’d be a proper pen for it). That was the end of the day for us, we did dinner, bedtime, and planned our next days adventures in the park that we had never heard about until we were driving to Carlsbad Caverns National Park.

March 22 – Carlsbad Caverns National Park

We woke up in the gravel parking lot after a good night of sleep, ready for a day of adventure. The drive to Carlsbad Caverns was nice and short (~20 minutes) and we pulled over for our family park photo.

The drive up the hill to the visitor center was nice and twisty and when we pulled into the parking lot I was surprised to see how full it was. There was a truck backing out of a spot so we swept in and claimed it. we used the restrooms, stepped inside the visitor center to get the kid’s Jr. Ranger packets and some advice/info from the rangers. Noon was drawing near and with the walking ahead of us we fueled up on lunch in the van. Our friends had arrived and got a spot near ours where they too fixed up lunch and then we all set off together.

Walking through the visitor center we took in a ranger talk regarding the early pioneers to the caves and it’s transition into a national monument and then into a park. The kids played on an interactive display that allowed them to choose the mineral, location and type of water flow, and then showed them what type of formation that recipe would create. It was neat because it got them excited to go see the formations below.

Once the kids had expended their intrigue and were getting antsy, we set off on the trail towards the mouth of the cave. We could have taken the elevator down to the depth of the main room of the cave ~750 feet below the visitor center, but made the decision to save that for the ride back up to the surface (spoiler alert: this was a mistake, kind of). The aroma coming up out of the mouth of the cave smacked us all in the face as we approached. The temperature quickly drops to mid 50s as you enter the mouth and remains pretty constant throughout. The descent to the main area is a countless number of switchbacks through varying levels of darkness. Almost halfway down we bumped into a ranger going the opposite direction.

He was very kind, answering all our questions and explaining science’s consistency with Christianity. How some things we may just never fully comprehend and that it’s okay. He also pointed out the fact that we weren’t even halfway down and that if we didn’t hurry, we wouldn’t make it to the bottomless pit, which was a big draw for the kiddos who were already starting the murmur about the length of the walk.

All the way down there are beautiful formations and plaques designating their individual names as well as the type of formation. When we finally did make it to the bottom, the kids were already out of gas to continue. Though in their minds, the conundrum existed that they wanted to see the bottomless put, but didn’t want to walk any further, ugh! 🙂

We adjusted our aim for the “shortcut” loop (about .2miles) inside the big room which still takes us through the Hall of Giants and some other really neat formations. It was still a rough go as the kid’s good attitudes had vanished but we made it to the shortcut and back the other side of the loop to the revolving door which leads to the lobby for the elevators to the blue skies above. We made it into the second elevator car up and joked with the ranger who had presented the talk regarding the early pioneers in the visitor center earlier in the day.

The ride up 750 feet was quick and smooth and when we stepped out we only had an hour before the Visitor Center closed for the day. We used the restrooms and hustled out to the van to grab a snack and finish the Jr. Ranger packets. Coming back to the information counter inside the visitor center, we once again talked with Ranger Michael who had both given the talk and escorted us up the elevator. He talked with the kids about the caves (Henry admitted touching the rocks ONCE) and advised us on where we could camp for the night ahead instead of going back to the gravel driveway.

After receiving their badges we hustled to the theatre where we caught the last 15 minutes of the last video presentation for the day. We bought our park sticker in the shop and headed back out to Molly who was eager to get out of the park so she could do some more roaming around New Mexico.

We discussed the options Michael had presented with our friends, and picked out a first and second option. They loaned us one of their handheld radios and we set off down the hill and out of the park. On our way we were fortunate to see a couple groups of big horn sheep (probably about 25 all together). We headed north back towards the town of Carlsbad where we’d need to make a town run the next day before heading further south towards our next destination of Guadalupe Mountain National Park, in Texas.

The road to our first option was steep, rocky, but also enticing, so we went for it and were rewarded by panoramic views, a nice level site with room for both families, and the appearance of super heroes before bedtime.

March 21 – Raptor Lake to Chosa Campground

Today was a travel day. We woke up beside Raptor Lake for the last time.

Molly is ready to roll.

The kids got to do some playing after breakfast as we prepared all our gear for the road.

The kids wanted to have one more adventure beside the lake and the creek which Cory and I built a bridge across.

We did a final sweep of the area and bounced down the road towards Alamogordo NM. We had to make a stop in town to shower at the Rec Center, stock up on groceries, top off the fuel tank, water tanks, and dump some trash. Then we set off East with our friends right behind us. Our target was Carlsbad Caverns where we were going to do some exploring the next day. It was three and a half hour drive to our destination for the night Chosa Campground. It was pretty much a large dirt parking lot with a steel pipe fence all the way around. Nothing fancy, but the kids had room to run and play, we had cell phone service, and we were within 20 minutes of the National Park we were excited to explore the next morning.

Chosa Campground, more like parking lot, but it worked for us for the night.

While we were making the drive we found a town that is now “on the list” Cloudcroft and several that are not, including Hope…. 🙂

March 20 – White Sands National Monument with friends

A good morning beside Raptor Lake.

Another day waking up on the shore of Raptor Lake alongside friends. Today we’re going back into the White Sands NM, this time together. Jen finished up the Jr. Ranger packets with the kids this morning and all four kids ran around playing as we struck camp. With the kids in their car seats and a final sweep of the surrounding area for toys, we got back on the highway for the short drive back to the park.

The kids getting sworn in at the White Sands National Monument as Jr. Rangers.

We stopped at the visitor center to have the kids sworn in, receive their badges, and filled up one of our 6 gallon fresh water tanks that was empty. We ended up back near Alkali Flat trailhead but at a different lobe of the dunes. We had a quick lunch and then got down to playing. Up and down the hill, over and over again. Races, fort building, and yummy brownies. The afternoon was full of fun and Cory even pulled out his trainer kite which I flew for awhile which brought me back to old days of kiteboarding and flying the trainer at Jones Beach in Oregon. Our goal was to get back to the lake before sunset because it’s prettier at the water’s edge than inside the White Sands NM. We didn’t make sunset, but we did arrive before full dark and right before the first glimpse of the rising full moon. It was our last day at the White Sands and it was a great one.

Enjoying the waning light of the day.

March 19 – White Sands National Monument

Breakfast beside the lake.

Our friends rolled in after we had settled down to dinner last night. It was a great reunion and we quickly caught up in the darkness. We hurridly talked about our plans for the next day. This morning the kids got to do some playing, there was big mounds of slashings and a huge pile of concrete slabs that made for some creative forts, worlds, and adventures. Our friends needed to make a town run, so we said goodbye while they headed out for Alamagordo and we got ready to head out to the White Sands.

Our friends heading in for a town run.

Our boondocking site at the lake was only a 10 minute drive from White Sands National Monument. We pulled into the visitor center, bought some sleds from a lady selling her used ones in the parking lot (3 for $30), bought our hunks of wax ($2 an ounce), and picked up our Jr. Ranger packets. We flashed our “America the Beautiful” pass to the ranger at the entrance booth and made the drive into the national monument. We heard from our friends that the place to sled was near the end of the loop near the Alkali Flat trailhead. So that was where we settled in for the day.

Snow sleds on the sand, go figure.

The skies were blue, the weather was perfect (warm in the sun, cool in the shade), and the kids made friends right away. You hike up, catch your breath, sled down, apply sunscreen, and repeat all day long 🙂 It was a great relaxing day.

Once I had hiked my fill up the hill and frisbee’d the sleds up for the kids to meet their appetite, I pulled out a couple wrenches and addressed a rattle that was coming from the rear sway bar linkage where a bushing had warn out. I had ordered one from the manufacturer when we were in Phoenix last, but it didn’t arrive in time to install it before we took off again. It’s not a critical component and other than a little rattle while driving wasn’t noticeable.

The old bushing, notice the exposed metal which was causing the rattle.

After removing the culprit from below the van and measuring all the important dimensions with my digital calipers, I proceeded to cut off all the remaining rubber on the bushing with a box knife and fired up Fusion 360 on my laptop to design a replacement. A few minutes later the design was completed and ready for a trip to the printer. One of the materials I’m able to print with on the 3d printer that I’m carrying with me on this journey is TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurathane) It’s resistance to oil, abrasion, and high melting temperature make it a good solution for now (or until I get the actual part from Phoenix).

Each half took 20 minutes to print. After printing both, I crawled back under the van and reconnected the sway bar utilizing the 3d printed bushings which fit perfectly. Just in time too. As I was under the van putting it back together, the ranger drove up and asked if anything was broken and that we needed to get going as the sun was set and the park was about to close. It was a great day filled with lots of exhausting fun, creative problem solving, and more quality family time spent in God’s wonderful creation.

The moon is up, time to go.

March 18 – Albuquerque Turkey

Remember that appointment I scheduled on Saturday after calling around looking for a certified Sprinter technician to figure out why we have a few lights lit up on the dashboard. So we had to do some strategic planning. We brought Molly into Petsmart to be groomed while the van was getting worked on and then pulled into the garage door as they opened right on time. Turns out their Sprinter Tech doesn’t work Mondays…….

I guess the scheduler that I spoke with who said the earliest the sprinter tech could diagnose our van would be Monday morning, was mistaken. This was not a good start to the day. We had to wake up early (for us) and we had already dropped off Molly and were told 3-4 hours. So now what do we do??? I brought Jen to Target just down the street to grab some items we needed that we had planned to grab while the van was being worked on. While she was inside I called around and found a shop that was very kind and willing to try and calibrate the Steering Angle Sensor (this is what I had diagnosed the issue to be, along with my good friend Googles help). So we went there, they tried, to no avail, they weren’t able to communicate with our van’s computer with their scanner. Strike two….

We heard back from our new family friends that they could get us half price tickets for the tram ride. So kind of them, not only to actually make the effort to check but they also were willing to meet us at the credit union to get us the passes. It was a huge blessing and at that point of the day, was the only thing that was working out.

We made the drive up to the base of Sandia Peak Tramway and got in line with our tickets (after pressing some pennies of course).

It was a fun experience and I’m glad we did it, especially for the price that it cost us. On our way up I got a call from Petsmart that I let go to voicemail, as we were crammed into the gondola with about 30 other people whom I sure didn’t want to hear me talk with the groomer. At the top of the mountain I called them back and was informed that Molly was ready for pickup. So we got in the same glass box that brought us up the mountain and rode it right back down to the parking lot below. I had setup one more appointment for the van at another mechanic shop that speciallizes in German vehicles that could look at the van between 1:30 and 2:00. So we drove back across town, picked up Molly, who sure was glad to see us, and I see her glowing report card 🙂

Once there were 12 legs back inside the van, we drove (of course) back across town to see if this mechanic could calibrate the SAS. Super kind in the lobby and very accommodating as they even allowed us to stay inside the van as the mechanic drove the van around the shop and up onto the lift (which of course Henry and Amelia were both very excited about). As the poked around the van I could hear the discussion regarding what they thought the problem was and when the lead mechanic stuck his head in and said they’d need the van for 2-3 days to “find the problem” I as calmly as I could, declined and said we’d continue on our journey as-is/how we’ve been driving it for the past 11,000 miles. Again, the shop surprised me when I went into the lobby with the mechanic to get the keys, sign paperwork, and I assumed pay my bill. They said “no charge”, “drive safe and have fun!”. Totally unexpected, and another blessing to be grateful for. With our release from this shop we had already decided that we would continue the adventure and knowing that we had another road tripping family within a few hours drive, we turned South towards White Sands National Monument and finally left Albuquerque in the rear view mirror (that’s just a figure of speech as our van doesn’t have a rear view mirror 🙂

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We grabbed some groceries in Alamagordo as we neared our boondocking site and then settled in next to the lake while the sun fell on the mountains beyond the white sands, it was a long drive and an even longer day, but we were happy to be where we were, with people that we enjoy, and new adventures in front of us.

March 17 – Albuquerque Still

Having the thermometer is easing my fears. Of course feeling something that is hotter than our body temp is a vague measurement. Having the wheel bearing give out previously had me more tuned in to the possibility of it happening again and when someone online asked me “How hot is it?” my ignorant answer of “I’m not sure” led me to the purchase of the thermometer. For $20 I can now say that it “Isn’t very hot” the brake rotors are around 200f and the wheel bearing cap is around 100f, both well within normal operating temps. Phew, not going to blow another bearing, but the lights are still on the dash, so we’re keeping our appointment for Monday because I’ve called all the rest of our stops in New Mexico and can’t find another Sprinter Tech until we get well into Texas…..

The RV Park had laundry and shower facilities on site, so we took advantage of that opportunity and then headed to a park for a relax Sunday. Though the park was right next to a library, unfortunately the library was closed and there wasn’t a bathroom at the park, this wasn’t an issue until right before we left, but we managed. The park was fun and after the kids finished their school work with Jen, we got out the razor scooters and they rode around for awhile on the paths. There was a birthday party going on with a bounce house and one attendee rode his 4 wheeler to the party. He was doing wheelies up and down the street around the park, so that was some unexpected entertainment.

Remember the family we camped next to and hung out with at Petrified Forest NP? They were from Albuquerque so Jen sent them a text to see if they could recommend another park for us to visit. They sent her their favorite and said they’d meet us there around 3. So we loaded into the van and set off across town to see a much larger, much more expensive, and much more crowded park. It is very large with everything you could want at a park, playground, grassy fields, skatepark, dog park, and bathrooms. Being a Sunday afternoon, it also had a lot of people, but that was great too. Sure enough we met up with the other family and talked for hours while the kids ran around and played. I did take a stroll with Molly to this dog park which she proved to be a little too protective of me when other dogs would get too close. No real issues, she just want’s me to be a one dog kind of guy 🙂

As we were leaving the park saying goodbye to our new family friends we mentioned that we considered going to the Tram but that the cost was more than we were willing to pay. They thought they might get a discount from their credit union and said they’d look into in the next day and let us know if anything was available.

We had our appointment scheduled for early the next morning so instead of heading back to the RV Park, we hunkered down in another Walmart parking lot near the Dodge dealership, had a great dinner, set our alarms, and went to sleep.

March 16 – Albuquerque Day

Remember the heat I was “feeling” at each front wheel? Well last night had me up late searching and commenting on sprinter forums about what the possible causes could be. This morning I broke the news to Jen, she was bummed but we discussed our options and what we thought the best course of action would be. We decided on getting the van into a dodge dealership’s service department where they have a certified sprinter technician who can hopefully diagnose the lights and get us confidently back on the road. Being a Saturday I called around hoping to get lucky and be able to get in right away but the Mercedes Benz dealership and Dodge dealership both couldn’t accommodate us until Monday morning. Knowing there’s a price difference at the MB service department and that a sprinter tech is a sprinter tech, we took the earliest appointment (8:30am on Monday) at Melloy Dodge and set out for a day in Albuquerque. Our national museum pass from our OMSI membership (Thanks Mom and Rob!) gives us access to museums and other great spots throughout the country. Explora which is in Albuquerque was on the list, so we left our cozy RV park where we spent the night, stopped at a Harbor Freight to pickup a contactless thermometer to see just how “hot” the bearings/brakes were getting and went to Explora.

It was a great place and we didn’t even get through it all though we were there for most of the day. The kids really enjoyed the water activities and spinning table was a lot of fun too. When we did leave, we headed to a dog park nearby to let Molly off the leash and do some doggy socializing….

All in all it was a great day, and after one more, we’ll be able to get the van looked at and hopefully be on our way, once again headed “East” 🙂

March 15 – Petrified Forest NP to Albuquerque New Mexico

We awoke to blue skies and the kids from the night before playing baseball outside. Henry was quick to shove some breakfast in his mouth and get outside to play. The rest of us were a little slower to enjoy our breakfast, some coffee and put away the beds for the day ahead. We did speak with the kid’s parents shortly before they pulled out and once we were ready, we headed out as well.

A short drive up the road (4 miles) and we were at the park entrance

It’s not the most photogenic national park I’ve ever seen, but the visitor center does a good job of explaining the phenomenon of the petrified wood has several stops along the road northbound that you can stop at to see Native American sites and petrified wood highlights.

We stopped at the Puerco Pueblo and wouldn’t you know, the other family was there too. We chatted in the parking lot for a bit and then set off down the trail together. It was a short walk but we enjoyed their company and took photos of the kids together and exchanged mailing addresses to be pen pals.

At the northern end of the park is another visitor center where we pulled in to get the kids their badges for becoming Jr. Rangers and also use the restroom before our drive to Albuquerque. In the parking lot, I saw Loren with the kids and we exchanged phone numbers to keep in touch while we’re in Albuquerque (where they live).

The drive to Albuquerque was longer than we had done the two days previous and when we got to our stop for the night (Enchanted Trails RV Park & Trading Post) I did a quick touch on each wheel check their temperature. I was bummed to feel heat on both sides (a bad front wheel bearing is what brought us back to Phoenix early on our last leg). I went inside the lobby to check in, get our spot, and contemplate what our next move would be.

March 14 – Payson to Petrified Forest NP

After spending the night in the Walmart parking lot, we woke up and were excited to toast some bread and bagels for breakfast. We had added the smallest toaster we could find when we were back in Phoenix because our family loves carbs, especially if it comes out of a toaster. The toaster was “stinky” with burn off with it’s first operation, so Jen hooked it up to our extension cord and was going to run a cycle with it outside the van. That’s when her foot caught the cord and down the toaster fell, ending it’s serviceable life and our hopes of a toasted breakfast. That is unless we still happen to be parked in front of Walmart 🙂

Our home where we parked it in Payson AZ at the Walmart.

Toaster down, guess this one didn’t want to travel the country 😉

Toaster down, and out! Notice the dial, it pushed back and broke the circuit board.

The irony that we were parked at Walmart ( a big player in reducing the price and quality of goods ) wasn’t lost on me.

The smallest toaster was still the cheapest, and we were back in the toasting business.

Cheap small replacement toaster

We had a great “toasted” breakfast and then set our sights for the Petrified Forest National Park. There’s a museum / gift shop just in front of the park where they have some spots to camp for the night. No services, but they do have a bathroom in the gift shop and plenty of room for the kids to play.

Amelia bought a rock and Henry bought a rubber band gun.

Nice shot buddy!

There was another family that pulled into the area about the same time as us. As the adults were setting up dinner, the kids started to play. They played until just before dark, we waited to call them in for dinner, because there’s nothing like meeting new friends and you never know what the friendship will turn into.